Umwenda wa jacquard ni uwuhe?

Igisobanuro cyimyenda ya jacquard

Kuboha imyenda ya Jacquard ukoresheje imashini ukoresheje imyenda ibiri cyangwa myinshi y'amabara yiboheye mu buryo butaziguye imyenda igoye mu mwenda, kandi umwenda wakozwe ufite ibishushanyo by'amabara cyangwa ibishushanyo.Imyenda ya Jacquard itandukanye nuburyo bwo gukora imyenda yacapwe, ikubiyemo kuboha mbere, hanyuma ikirango kongerwamo.

Amateka yimyenda ya jacquard

Uwabanjirije jacquardumwenda

Uwabanjirije umwenda wa jacquard ni Brocade, umwenda wa silike watangiriye ku ngoma ya Zhou yo mu Bushinwa (mu kinyejana cya 10 kugeza mu cya 2 mbere ya parike), ufite amabara meza n'ubuhanga bukuze.Muri kiriya gihe, abashinwa babaga bakora imyenda y'ibudodo, kandi nta bumenyi rusange bwari buhari.Mu ngoma ya Han (imyaka 95 muri parike), Brocade y'Abashinwa itangiza Ubuperesi (ubu ni Irani) na Daqin (Ingoma ya kera y'Abaroma) binyuze mu Muhanda wa Silk.

Na Cooper Hewitt, Inzu Ndangamurage ya SmithsonianCC0, Ihuza

Han Brocade: Inyenyeri eshanu ziturutse iburasirazuba kugirango zungukire Ubushinwa

Abahanga mu by'amateka ya Byzantine basanze kuva mu kinyejana cya 4 kugeza mu cya 6, umusaruro w’ubudodo mu budodo utabonetse, imyenda n’ubwoya bikaba imyenda nyamukuru.Mu kinyejana cya 6 ni bwo abihayimana bombi bazanye ibanga ry'ubuhinzi - umusaruro w'ubudodo - ku mwami w'abami wa Byzantine.Kubera iyo mpamvu, imico y’iburengerazuba yize korora, korora no kugaburira inzoka.Kuva icyo gihe, Byzantium yabaye nini nini kandi nini cyane mu bihugu by’iburengerazuba, ikora ibishushanyo bitandukanye by’ubudodo, birimo brocade, damasks, brocatelles, hamwe n’imyenda isa na tapeste.

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Mugihe cya Renaissance, imitako yimyenda yubudodo yubutaliyani yariyongereye (bivugwa ko yazamuye imyenda yubudodo), kandi ubunini hamwe nubwiza buhebuje bwimyenda ihebuje yubudodo byatumye Ubutaliyani bukora imyenda yubudozi ikomeye kandi nziza cyane muburayi.

Ivumburwa rya jacquard

Mbere yo kuvumbura imyenda ya Jacquard, Brocade yatwaraga igihe kinini kugirango itange umusaruro kubera imitako ikomeye.Kubera iyo mpamvu, iyi myenda yarahenze kandi yaboneka gusa kubanyacyubahiro nabakire.

Mu 1804, Joseph Marie Jacquard yahimbye 'imashini ya Jacquard,' igikoresho gishyizwe mu mwenda cyoroshya gukora imyenda ishushanyije cyane nka Brocade, damask, na matelassé."Urunigi rw'amakarita agenzura imashini."amakarita menshi yakubiswe ashyizwe hamwe muburyo bukomeza.Imyobo myinshi yakubiswe kuri buri karita, hamwe ikarita imwe yuzuye ihuye numurongo umwe.Ubu buryo bushobora kuba bumwe mubintu bishya byububoshyi, kuko gusuka kwa Jacquard byatumye bishoboka gukora umusaruro wubwoko butandukanye butagira imipaka bwo kuboha ibintu bigoye.

Na CC BY-SA 4.0, Ihuza

Ivumburwa rya Jacquard ryagize uruhare runini mu nganda z’imyenda.Inzira ya Jacquard hamwe nu mugereka wa ngombwa wa ngombwa yitiriwe uwabihimbye.Ijambo 'jacquard' ntirisobanutse cyangwa rigarukira ku mwenda runaka ariko ryerekeza ku buryo bwiyongera bwo kugenzura butangiza icyitegererezo.Imyenda yakozwe nubu bwoko bwimyenda irashobora kwitwa 'imyenda ya jacquard.Ivumburwa ryimashini ya jacquard yongereye cyane umusaruro wimyenda ya jacquard.Kuva icyo gihe, imyenda ya jacquard yegereye ubuzima bwabantu basanzwe.

Imyenda ya Jacquard uyumunsi

Imyenda ya Jacquard yarahindutse cyane uko imyaka yagiye ihita.Hifashishijwe mudasobwa, imyenda ya Jacquard yavuye kure yo gukoresha amakarita yakubiswe.Ibinyuranye, Jacquard imyenda ikora na porogaramu za mudasobwa.Ibi bikoresho byateye imbere byitwa mudasobwa ya Jacquard.Igishushanyo mbonera gikeneye gusa kuzuza igishushanyo mbonera cyimyenda ikoresheje software hanyuma igategura porogaramu ikora ikoresheje mudasobwa.Imashini ya jacquard ya mudasobwa irashobora kurangiza umusaruro.Abantu ntibagikeneye gukora amakarita akomeye yamakarita yakubiswe kuri buri gishushanyo, bikagabanya cyane ibikenerwa kwinjiza intoki no gukora imyenda yo kuboha imyenda ya jacquard ikora neza kandi ihendutse.

Igikorwa cyo gukora imyenda ya jacquard

Igishushanyo & Porogaramu

Iyo tubonye igishushanyo mbonera, dukeneye kubanza kuyihindura muri fayili yo gushushanya mudasobwa ya jacquard ishobora kumenya hanyuma igahindura dosiye ya progaramu kugirango igenzure imirimo yimashini ya jacquard ya mudasobwa kugirango irangize umusaruro.

Guhuza amabara

Kugirango ubyare umwenda nkuko wabigenewe, ugomba gukoresha ibara ryiza ryamabara kugirango ukore imyenda.Ibara ryacu rero rikeneye guhitamo ubudodo bumwe bujyanye nibara ryashushanyije kuva ku bihumbi ibihumbi hanyuma ukagereranya ayo mabara asa n’ibara ryashushanyije umwe umwe kugeza igihe ududodo duhuye neza n’ibara ryatoranijwe - - Andika umubare w’imyenda ihuye.Iyi nzira isaba kwihangana n'uburambe.

Gutegura imyenda

Ukurikije nimero yimyenda yatanzwe nuwashinzwe amabara, umuyobozi wububiko bwacu ashobora kubona vuba Yarn ihuye.Niba ingano yimigabane idahagije, turashobora kandi guhita tugura cyangwa gutunganya Yarn ikenewe.Kugirango imyenda ikorwe mugice kimwe nta tandukaniro ryibara.Mugihe cyo gutegura Yarn, duhitamo Yarn ikozwe mugice kimwe kuri buri bara.Niba umubare wimyenda mubice bidahagije, tuzongera kugura icyiciro cya Yarn.Iyo umwenda utanze, dukoresha ibyiciro byose bishya byaguzwe bya Yarn, ntabwo tuvanga ibice bibiri bya Yarn kugirango tubyare umusaruro.

 imyenda ya jacquard ibikoresho fatizo

Kuboha imyenda ya Jacquard

Iyo ubudodo bwose bwiteguye, ubudodo buzahuza imashini ya jacquard kugirango ikore, kandi imigozi yamabara atandukanye izahuzwa murutonde rwihariye.Nyuma yo gutumiza dosiye ikora porogaramu, imashini ya jacquard ya mudasobwa izarangiza umusaruro wabigenewe.

Kuvura imyenda ya Jacquard

Iyo umwenda umaze kuboha, ugomba kuvurwa nuburyo bwumubiri nubumashini kugirango wongere ubworoherane, kurwanya abrasion, kurwanya amazi, kwihuta kwamabara, nibindi bintu biranga imyenda.

Kugenzura imyenda ya Jacquard

Kugenzura Imyenda ya Jacquard Nyuma yo gutunganya imyenda, intambwe zose zo gukora zirarangiye.Ariko niba umwenda ukeneye kugezwa kubakiriya, igenzura ryanyuma ryimyenda naryo rirasabwa kugirango:

  1. Umwenda uringaniye nta shitingi.
  2. Umwenda ntabwo ari oblique.
  3. ibara ni kimwe numwimerere.
  4. Ingano yicyitegererezo ikwiye

Ibiranga imyenda ya jacquard

Ibyiza by'imyenda ya jacquard

1. Imiterere yimyenda ya jacquard ni nshyashya kandi nziza, kandi ikiganza cyayo ntigisanzwe;2. Imyenda ya Jacquard ikungahaye cyane kumabara.Ibishushanyo bitandukanye birashobora kuboha ukurikije imyenda y'ibanze, ikora ibara ritandukanye.Umuntu wese arashobora kubona uburyo akunda.3. Imyenda ya Jacquard iroroshye kuyitaho, kandi biroroshye cyane kwambara mubuzima bwa buri munsi, kandi ifite n'ibiranga umucyo, ubworoherane, hamwe no guhumeka.4. Bitandukanye n'ibishushanyo byanditse kandi byashyizweho kashe, imyenda yo kuboha ya jacquard ntizashira cyangwa ngo igabanye imyenda yawe.

Ibibi byimyenda ya jacquard

1. Bitewe nuburyo bugoye bwimyenda ya jacquard, ubwinshi bwimyenda yimyenda ni ndende cyane, bizagabanya umwuka wimyuka.2. Igishushanyo nogukora imyenda ya jacquard biragoye, kandi igiciro kiri hejuru mumyenda y'ibikoresho bimwe.

Gutondekanya imyenda ya jacquard

 

Brocade

Numudozi utazwi.Ifoto yububiko.Ihuza

Brocade ifite icyitegererezo kuruhande rumwe, naho kurundi ruhande ntirugira ishusho.Brocade irahuze : · 1.Ameza.Brocade ninziza kumeza yameza, nka napkins, ameza, nameza.Brocade irimbisha nyamara iraramba kandi irashobora kwihanganira imikoreshereze ya buri munsi · 2.Imyenda.Brocade ninziza mugukora imyenda, nka jacketi ya trim cyangwa amakanzu ya nimugoroba.Mugihe imyenda iremereye idafite drape nkiyindi myenda yoroheje, kwinangira gukora silhouette yubatswe.· 3.Ibikoresho.Brocade izwi cyane mubikoresho by'imyambarire nk'ibitambaro n'amashashi.Ibishushanyo byiza hamwe nigitambara cyinshi bituma habaho isura nziza kubice byamagambo.· 4.Imitako yo murugo.Brocade cade yahindutse imitako yo murugo kubishushanyo byabo bishimishije.Kuramba kwa Brocade bituma biba byiza kuri upholster na drape.

 

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Brocatelle

 

Brocatelle isa na Brocade kuko ifite icyitegererezo kuruhande rumwe, ntabwo kurundi ruhande.Iyi myenda mubisanzwe ifite igishushanyo cyoroshye kuruta Brocade, ifite ubuso bwihariye buzamuye, bwuzuye.Brocatelle muri rusange iremereye kandi iramba kuruta Brocade.Ubusanzwe Brocatelle ikoreshwa mumyambarire gakondo kandi igezweho, nk'ikositimu, imyenda, n'ibindi.

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Ibishushanyo bya Damask biranga shingiro namabara yibishushanyo bihinduka imbere inyuma.Ubusanzwe Damask iratandukanye kandi ikozwe nududodo twa satin kugirango twumve neza.Igicuruzwa cyanyuma ni ibintu bidasubirwaho byimyenda yimyenda itandukanye.Imyenda ya Damask isanzwe ikoreshwa kandi ikorwa mumyambarire, amajipo, ikoti nziza, hamwe namakoti.

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Matelassé

Matelassé (bizwi kandi nk'imyenda ibiri) ni tekinike yo kuboha yubufaransa iha imyenda igitambaro cyangwa igitambaro.Imyenda myinshi yuburiri irashobora kugerwaho kumyenda ya jacquard kandi igenewe kwigana uburyo bwo kudoda intoki cyangwa kuboha.Imyenda ya Matelassé irakwiriye kubipfundikizo byo gushushanya, guta umusego, uburiri, ibitambaro byo kuryamaho, imyenda, n umusego.Irakoreshwa kandi cyane muburiri bwigitanda no kuryama kwabana.

 

 

 

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Ikariso

Muri terminologiya igezweho, "Tapeyasi" bivuga umwenda uboshye ku mwenda wa jacquard wigana kaseti yamateka."Tapeya" ni ijambo ridasobanutse neza, ariko risobanura umwenda uremereye hamwe no kuboha amabara menshi.Tapery nayo ifite ibara ritandukanye inyuma (urugero, umwenda ufite amababi yicyatsi kubutaka butukura uzaba ufite ikibabi gitukura inyuma yicyatsi) ariko kibyimbye, kirakomeye, kandi kiremereye kuruta damask.Ubusanzwe igitambaro gikozwe mu budodo bunini kuruta Brocade cyangwa Damask.Igitambaro cyo gushushanya urugo: sofa, umusego, nigitambara cyintebe.

 

 

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Cloque

Umwenda wa Cloque ufite ishusho yazamuye kandi ushimishije cyangwa usa neza.Ubuso bugizwe nuburyo budasanzwe bwazamuye imibare mito yakozwe nububoshyi.Iyi myenda ya jacquard ikozwe muburyo butandukanye nizindi myenda ya jacquard kuko ikorwa muburyo bwo kugabanuka.Fibre naturel mumyenda iragabanuka mugihe cyo kubyara, bigatuma ibikoresho bitwikirwa nibibyimba bisa.Imyenda ya Cloque hamwe n imyenda myiza ikunze gukoreshwa mubihe bitandukanye nibirori byakozwe muri iyi myenda kandi birasanzwe kandi byiza.Nibyiza kandi bisohora ubuhanga ntakindi kintu gishobora guhura.


Igihe cyo kohereza: Gashyantare-17-2023